Quality tilefish is easy to recognise. Fresh tilefish never smells fishy; it smells fresh like the ocean. The eyes should appear bright and clear, almost alive. The gills should be reddish, and the skin moist and with tightly adhering, shiny scales. Fresh tilefish flesh will give slightly when you press it with a finger, then spring back into shape. When choosing tilefish fillets, whether they’re fresh or previously frozen, look for moist, translucent (never dried out) flesh.